Hooked Venice

Hooked has no address of its own and does not roast, and it still lists farm, farmer, variety and process for whatever lot is in the hopper — one barista working a rotating roaster's coffee at a counter he does not own. The walls belong to the restaurant; the standard does not.

• A weekday pour-over
• Coffee before the boardwalk
• Talking to the person making it
• A bag from a rotating roaster

No in-house roasting: the bar runs guest roasters on rotation, Dune Coffee Roasters among them, with changeovers posted by the operator and tasting notes attached. Weekday pour-over service publishes farm, farmer, location, variety and process for the lot on offer — more transparency than most multi-roaster bars in the city put in public.

The counter sits inside Dudley Market, a seafood restaurant a block from the Venice boardwalk, so the walls, light and seating were built for a dining room rather than a coffee bar: no separately commissioned build-out, no named architect. It is still a well-kept counter with a clear point of view.