ONUL Coffee

Onul borrows Bar Bandini by day and treats espresso the way its host treats natural wine: named farms, info cards, and a signature list with real ideas on it. The Fridge Siggy (Diet Coke over a natural-process Ethiopian shot, capped with house lime oleo saccharum) is the thesis in a glass.

Espresso pulls from Hydrangea and The Tulip House, farm-level lots with the info card to prove it. The signature drinks are the specialty: house-made components over named single origins, with the Fridge Siggy out front.

The room is Bar Bandini's (dark painted walls, suede banquettes, black slate warmed by rustic exposed wood), and Onul holds it Wednesday through Sunday. Daylight in a natural wine bar turns out to suit a slow espresso.