Saguaro Coffee

Five bags on the retail shelf, every one named to its farm or its cooperative, including a Chiapas community lot, Las Tejedoras, grown entirely by women producers. A shop this new could have run a house blend and a good espresso and called it a day; somebody here would rather do the paperwork.

Everything is roasted on site, and the pour-over bar keeps three single origins standing at once: Colombia Diego Lopez Narino El Tambo, Ethiopia Sidama Bura Hamasho, and Guatemala Huehuetenango La Morena, with the house espresso pulled on a Costa Rica Tarrazú La Pastora. Product pages go down to 17 grams of coffee, 250 grams of water at 204°F and a 360 micron grind, and not one of them prints a roast date.

A single glass-fronted storefront, the name over the entrance and palm trees coming back off the windows, opening on a room the shop invites people to settle into. The shop credits no designer, and its own site still shows the place as bare metal framing, a ladder and ductwork mid-build, an odd and likeable thing to leave up.