Yipao Coffee

Jairo Martinez roasts, and co-founder Maria Bahamon, a certified Q Arabica Grader, signs off on the quality of every batch. Every coffee they sell comes from Colombia and nowhere else, a narrow lane for a roaster and a hard one to hide in.

Nine single origins sit on the shelf, each tagged to a farm and a micro-region rather than a country: an SL-28 natural from Quebraditas in Huila, a honey-processed Green Wush Wush from Rio Blanco, a washed Tabi off Samaria in Belen de Umbria. The Blue Gesha from Finca Monteverde names its producer, Newerley Gutierrez Falla, its 1,900 meters and a 90-point cup, and then stops short of a roast date.

The bar works out of a black-painted building beneath the red University Heights neon arch, Kairoa Brewing Company lettered across the front and a striped awning over the rooftop patio. Orders go out through a ground-floor window onto the sidewalk, with patio seating and tables shared with the brewery inside.