Compa Coffee Roasters

Compa is short for compadre, and the shop writes that it loves coffee and great food but loves people more, which is a bold ranking for a business with Roasters in its name. The Colombia argues the other side: Cristalina, its producer Luis Jose Valdes, bourbon, natural.

Everything poured here is roasted in house, a new roast out every Wednesday standing in for the roast date nobody prints. Filter is single-origin down the line, a 12-ounce pour-over made to order, batch drip, and flash brews out of Mexico and Ethiopia, off a lineup that names farm, variety, process and altitude down to a Costa Rica Catuai from Los Santos finished anaerobic honey at 1,950 meters.

Five teal ceramic cones sit lined on a shelf on the back bar, beside the canisters and rows of the shop's own two-tone retail bags, and a glass carafe goes out with a warmed mug on a routed wooden board cut with a well for each. It is a suite in The Mercado with a patio that takes dogs and a turfed corner for the kids, and that board is a level of trouble nobody goes to for a to-go cup.