Endless Quest Roasters

Every coffee is roasted in-house at the Costa Mesa lab, and the bags go past country to the person: the current Colombia names Finca Chambakú and Elmer Restrepo, forty-five years in Colombian coffee, now working fermentation with his son Juan Felipe. A roaster who puts a father-and-son fermentation program on a retail bag is not doing it for the label design.

• A farm-named pour-over
• Matcha with house lavender syrup
• The four outdoor tables
• Beans to take home

All roasting happens at the Costa Mesa warehouse, home to the roaster and a tasting lab where the company says it dials in every coffee before it reaches the bar. The retail line prints process, elevation and variety — the Ethiopia Wush Wush is a natural from 2300 meters — but no roast date.

Natural materials, weathered textures and open light, with the sea just past the doors at the Boat Canyon center — the coastline is the brief, and the room follows it without ornament. It reads sharp and clean rather than styled, which for a roaster whose tasting lab lives up the freeway in Costa Mesa is the right order of priorities.