Pursue Coffee

Four Barrel has poured here since the summer of 2018, and eight years on one roaster is its own kind of statement, a shop that found what it wanted and stopped shopping. Sixteen of the twenty bags on the shelf are named to farm or producer, varietal or process.

Four Barrel out of San Francisco has poured here since 2018, with a house espresso blend that rotates seasonally and a featured single origin beside it.

The room on the Aviation curve was a hookah lounge once, and the conversion kept its modesty: nearly invisible from the street, a tiny lot, bright but homey inside with a piano and a bar cut from a single slab of one very large tree. Finding it is the hard part; the name was fair warning.