Seven Seas Roasting

The buying is done in person on the other side of the world: the company says it travels to the farms to find growers in countries coffee does not typically come from. That ambition lands first thing every morning, in front of whoever walked up from the beach and whoever came down from the rooms upstairs.

Nothing is roasted at this address: Devin Fralin works the machine at the company's South Park roastery, and every room pours what comes off it. The shared bean list carries the Black Condor Project, named down to Gaitania in Tolima, Colombia at 1,650 to 1,950 meters, Caturra and Castillo, washed, tasting of stone fruit, red plum, macadamia and sugar cane, with no roast date printed.

Three painted canvases hang gallery-style as one continuous image, coral-pink and turquoise octopus tentacles across a grey marbled ground, on a dark horizontal slat wall above the built-in cabinets. Below that the finishes are hard and deliberate: polished concrete, an exposed ceiling carrying black track lighting and oversized dome pendants, printed menu boards over a counter faced in pale vertical slats, and a glass roll-up door raised onto the walkway so the daylight comes straight in.